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Thursday, August 11, 2011

My TED, Eragy

Howdy folks!

Well with the departure of Google PowerMeter the folks at The Energy Detective (TED) have come through and upgraded their equipment firmware to allow for other Energy Monitoring websites to be used.  I've decided to try out MyEragy.com which is based out of Durham, NC.  The Screenshot of the 'dashboard' is below:


It's not too bad.  The actual TED dashboard is easier to use, but maybe this site will eventually allow me to link my daily usage to my Blog so I'll update it more often (yes...I've been slacking).

On top of that my TED5000 display stand has stopped charging my display unit.  Dang!  I've contact the folks at TED since I'm still under warranty.  I just submitted my information so I should hear shortly.  One thing that sucks is that they required me to show a copy of my receipt.  Seriously?  A receipt?  It's been 7 months.  The only reason I have the receipt is because it was in my 2010 taxes folder (yes...an energy monitor qualifies for the energy tax credit).  Anyhow...if you get one of these, don't throw out the receipt.  Maybe some day, they'll have a product registration option to their website so when you get the software, you register your device so you don't need to hold onto the receipt for a year.

UPDATE (8/17/11):  As soon as I sent in the information, I got a RMA # and a FedEx return label same day.  Fantastic work from these folks!  Plus, I like not having to pay shipping. I FedExed my display back and I'm awaiting its return.  I will say not having the display in the kitchen makes me feel...well...a little lost and uniformed.  

Oh yeah....almost forgot...while at the Water Environment Federation (WEF) Energy and Water Conference last week, I saw a presentation that included energy monitors.  The project was actual about using these monitors to measure energy usage from decentralized wastewater treatment systems (aka septic tank-type systems).  Well...one interesting fact was that on average, folks who have an energy monitor use 10-15% less energy than those who do not....mainly because of just being informed.

So that's something to think about for anyone out there who's interested...

Saturday, August 6, 2011

August Energy Bill in...

I've never been so excited to get a bill in.  Our Duke Energy bill showed up this afternoon while I was mowing the lawn.  When I wife let me know I immediately asked, "How much?!?!"  When she mumbled something to the range of 2600 kWh, I replied, "No F*$&#ing way!"  That's when I went inside to find she was way off.  Note...she did admit that she has no idea where that number came from since there isn't any 2600 or 2xxx number on the bill.

Anyhow...the totals (drum roll please...):

Total kWh = 888
Days = 28
Avg = 31.71 kWh/d
Aug 2010 Avg = 51.13 kWh/d (over 32 days)

2011 Savings = 37.97%  Boooyahhhh!!!

Cost for July/August (trying to get an equivalent # of days):
2010 (54 days) = 2586 kWh = 47.89 kWh/d -->$246
2011 (61 days) = 1974 kWh = 32.36 kWh/d -->$190
Savings = 612 kWh -->$56 ....and that's using 7 days more electricity!

OK...compared to our 2005 built townhome:
2009 Total Energy Usage:  34.24 kWh/d
2011 Total Energy Usage:  31.71 kWh/d
Difference (2011 vs 2009):  92.6%

So again our work has paid off!  Our 2700sf home built in 1986 used 7.4% less energy than our 1300sf townhome built in 2005.

That's just awesome!  Again the savings would be greater if I wasn't running the dehumidifier so much.  But, how can I complain???

I will note that my TED unit estimated 1071 kWh were used for the month.  My first thoughts was that its a fairly big error although we were 3 days short (28 vs 31 days).  3 days @ 31.71 kWh/d = 95.13 kWh+888 = 983.13 kWh.  983.13/888 = 10.7% error.  I guess you can't complain about a 10% error for a residential product.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Reblog...

Hey folks-

I accidentially came across this blog and found it really interesting:


Tank or No Tank...Endless debate over hot water heating can stand to be cooled down
http://amicusgreen.typepad.com/amicus-answers/2010/03/tank-or-no-tankendless-debate-over-hot-water-heating-can-stand-to-be-cooled-down.html

It's old but very interesting.  I am not considering a tankless hot water heater since its not really compatible with the geothermal desuperheater...but could be useful to other folks out there.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

June/July Energy Usage

Last month's energy usage numbers are in (ok...they've been in for awhile and I've forgotten...you busted me) and the results show more good news:

June/July 2010 Usage:  950 kWh / 22 days = 43.18 kWh/d
June/July 2011 Usage:  1,086 kWh/33 days = 32.91 kWh/d
Savings = 23.79%

Pretty good.  One thing to note is last month/this month I've been running that dehumidifier a lot (see previous posts) so that usage is abnormally high.

Compared to the "old" townhome, my usage looks like:

June/July 2009 Usage:  794 kWh/33 days = 24.06 kWh + 8 CCF gas (7.5 kWh/d) = 31.61 kWh/d
Difference = 104.1%

So I was 4% higher...but then again, remove the dehumidifier usage and I'd be lower.  But even at 4% higher...can I complain?  2005 built vs 1984 built.  1300 sf vs 2600 sf.  Yeah...no way!

The July/August bills will be interesting given how hot its been lately (90s).  Last year we used 1636 kWh (51.1 kWh/d).  With the mid-high 90s now, we've only used a maximum of 40 kWh/d (last Friday when it was 99-100F). This years July/August bill will hold an additional 2-3 weeks of dehumidifier usage too.  FYI, I've switched to 3 hrs on/3 hrs off operation.  The system is off right now and the humidity is at 50%.  Good.  So maybe I'll let it run through the week to see where it ends up holding when its off.

Sunday, July 17, 2011

It's been a while...

Sorry folks...I know its been a while.  It's been wicked busy in the ole' household.  But I'm back!  The sad news is that Google PowerMeter is no more (see email received below):

Dear PowerMeter User,

We first launched Google PowerMeter as a Google.org project to raise awareness about the importance of giving people access to their energy information. Since our launch, there's been more attention brought to this issue, and we're excited that PowerMeter has helped demonstrate the importance of access to energy data. However, our efforts have not scaled as quickly as we would have liked, so we have decided to retire PowerMeter.

You will continue to have access to the product until September 16, 2011, after which time you will no longer be able to access your PowerMeter account. We know that having access to your energy information has helped you save energy and money. There are many options available for you from our device and utility partners. Please visit this page to learn more:http://www.google.com/support/powermeter/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=1342532

We also understand that having your historical energy data is important to you. We've made it easy for you to download your data. To export your PowerMeter data to a CSV (Comma Separated Values) file, log in to your account and go to "Account Settings." More information can be found here: http://www.google.com/support/powermeter/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=164264

We appreciate your understanding and hope that you've enjoyed using Google PowerMeter. If you have questions about this announcement, please visit our FAQ pages athttp://www.google.com/powermeter/about/faqs.html

Thank you,
Google PowerMeter team

© 2011 Google Inc. 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, CA 94043

You've received this mandatory service announcement email to update you about important changes to your Google PowerMeter account.



Granted, this really has no effect on me.  My TED will record data just fine and I'll still be able to blog about it.  It's just I was hoping to show y'all my PowerMeter on my blog.  I guess I can ditch that effort now.  Maybe I'll have to investigate how to replicate my TED data somewhere else.  Or at least have an automatic posting of what my daily usage is.  That would be neat.  Of course, that means I need to learn some potentially complicated coding.  Bah!  But...that's what my family of computer knowledgeable people is for, right?  And my computer knowledgeable friends too.


FYI...I plan to get back on the ole' blog bandwagon a little more in the upcoming weeks.  I have a ton of pics from some of my early energy efficiency work before I had this blog...or TED for that matter.


Oh yeah....update on the dehumidifier.  It's still going on/off.  That's annoying.  But with the recent thunderstorms that has knocked out power (the dehumidifier doesn't automatically start back up), I've seen that the crawl space is now at 62% and holding.  In a previous post a couple weeks back, after another power outage it was 67%, so its lowering.  I just need to get it down to below 60% (maybe 55%?) and I'll be happy.  It's probably sucking up all the water in the wood from the many previous years of high humidity.  I may just setup the dehumidifier to run 3 hrs on/3 hrs off and I'll monitor how low it gets the crawl space to...and then how the humidity returns to.  I gotta think that the lower the crawl space gets in the 3 hrs on...the more 'mass transfer' of water there will be from the wood to the atmosphere which will be removed.  So the greater the 'delta' between air and wood, the faster the transfer.  And that'll help me get to below my humidity goal.  


Ok...that's enough...until next time...

Friday, July 1, 2011

More dehumidifier stuff

OK...so I ran the dehumidifer with the fan on for about 2 weeks.  Mind you...the dehumidifier itself should turn the air over in the crawl space at least 24 times per day...in a perfect world.  So with the fan running it should do a better job.  Well, it ran constantly for a long time and when the dehumidifer started cycling, I knew I must be close.  

So yesterday, I turned off the fan and just let the dehumidifer do its thing.  Unfortunately, I didn't read the manual and thought that setting it on the "3 hrs" mode would mean it would run for 3 hours then turn off.  Nope...it means its runs for 3 hrs...then turns off...and then 3 hrs later it turns on.  Seriously?  It has a 6, and 12 version of the same thing.  Really?  So there's no way to save on electricity?  It's 12 hrs of operation or Auto?!?

Come on!

OK...so this morning I switched it back to "Auto" mode...and from the figure below you can see that its constantly cycling again.  Dang it!


My guess is that I'm going to have to purchase a cheap-o $15 box fan and install it down in the crawl space with it hooked up to one of those "smart strips".  Such that when the dehumidifer turns on...then it turns on the box fan also.  Maybe that'll fix this annoying constant "on/off" cycling.  It's OK, if it turns on once every hour...but ever couple minutes sucks!

BTW, my power usage jumped up to about 45 kWH/day (OUCH!) with the fan and the dehumidifer running non-stop.  Once I turned off the fan, it went down to 36 kWh/day.  My goal is to get it back to 30 kWh/day if I can ever get the dang dehumidifer to stop running for 8 hrs!

Monday, June 20, 2011

Dehumidifer

OK...so in my last post i talked about how I turned my vented crawl space to an unvented crawl space.  Overall, it isn't doing too bad.  Humidity is around 50% inside the house, while I have the crawl space dehumidifer set to 60%...although the wireless sensor I have in there says its around 55%.  Whatever...

Well...one thing has been bothering me, which is the amount of time, the dehumidifier runs.  Where the heck is the wet air coming from?  See the pic from TED below:

This is minute data...and you can see the small bumps in power usage.  Looking further, it appears the dehumidifer is turning on roughly 6-7x/hour.  When it runs...it runs for roughly 2-3 minutes.  Doing the math...24 hrs/day x 7ops/hr x 3 min/ops = 504 minutes per day of operation.  504 minutes = 8.4 hrs.  Why is this thing running for 8.4 hours? 

I went down into the crawl space and checked the door...and its sealed pretty tightly.  I checked all the vents and all were well sealed...except 2, which I added more caulking to yesterday.  But...no substantial change in operation.  I also checked the plastic and didn't find anything. 

Here's my theories:

1)  There's some holes at the end of the crawl space that appear to be ports to look at the steel beams under my garage workshop.  Some moisture could be coming from there...

2) Some moisture is coming from the house.  However...I'm holding 50-55% RH inside the house according to the inside thermostats...so it shouldn't be running unless the RH inside the house gets higher.  This could be a factor...but I doubt its contributing.

3)  The crawl space is not 100% sealed.  I'm sure there's some, but I would think that there isn't enough humidity entering to account for 2.8 pints/day (That's 50 pints/day capacity of the dehumidifier x 24/8.4).

4)  The dehumidifer humidistat is too sensitive/not all that great.  This wouldn't surprise me one bit...especially since I have the unit set to maintain 60% RH and the wireless sensor nearby is showing 55% RH.  I could setup the dehumidifer to only operate for X hrs/day (I think its limited to 3, 6, 8, or 12 hrs.)  I may try that to see how it works.  I'll try it low...like 3 hrs to see how well it does.  Generally, humidity is highest in the morning...so I'll have it run then. 

So...overall, I think I'll buy some spray in foam to close those holes/ports at the end of the crawl space.  Then I'll setup the demudifier to only operate for a set amount of time.  And then I'll monitor some more.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Initial Energy Savings! 30-40%!

Probably for the first time....I was super excited to get my Duke Energy bill.  This is one of the first bills to really show all my energy efficiency work.  What was the results?

Last month I used 526 kWh.  That's lowest we've had since moving in and equals 17.53 kWh/d.  That's even lower than the previous month (593 kWh) when we didn't use the HVAC at all.

How are we doing compared to last year?

March 2010 vs 2011:  34% less <---some heating until late in the month
April 2010 vs 2011:  4% less <---didn't use HVAC at all
May 2010 vs 2011:  41% less <---cooling started late in the month

Just awesome!  I'm thrilled...it's showing all that work is cashing in.

I also decided to compare my energy usage between this home (built 1986, 2700 sf) versus our old townhome (built 2005, 1300 sf).  Note for the "old" townhome I had to convert natural gas usage to electricity equivalent because both hot water heater and cooking used natural gas.  It's an easy conversion...if you want to know...ask.    OK here's the total energy consumption between the two places:

Feb 2011 vs Feb 2009: 26% less
Mar 2011 vs Mar 2009: 39% less
Apr 2011 vs Apr 2009:  22% less
May 2011 vs May 2009:  26% less

How awesome is that?  Our older, larger home is more energy efficiency than the newer, smaller, townhome.  Frickin' awesome.  I'm excited to see what the next bill shows...until July!!!

Pic of finished crawl space



Here's a pic of the finished crawl space.  Nice, huh?  I put down unused shingles at the entrance and around the hvac equipment to minimize damage during routine maintenance.

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Crawl Space Conditioning

Wow...it's been a while since I last posted.  But, things have been slow...until recently when I discovered lots of moisure in my crawl space.  Some background:

In the hot and humid south, moisture control is important in the crawl space to insure you don't allow mold to grow or provide ideal conditions for insects which can damage the underfloor joists for the house.   Old technology to control moisture was to put plastic on the ground (aka a vapor barrier) which would stop water for coming out of the soil.  It would also include putting in vents to "ventilate" the crawl spaces thereby removing moisture.  However...recent studies (Example:  http://www.smartvent.net/docs/crawlspacestudy.pdf or http://www.rlcengineering.com/csfallacies.htm) have shown that while some moisture is from the earth...the majority of it generally comes from the humidity in the air.   Note that folks are making a living off of fixing crawl spaces...for example:  http://www.dryprosystems.com/crawl-space-repair/vapor-barrier.html

Well...so far this summer has seen some very hot and humid days.  In the past week temperatures have been in the lower-mid 90s with the humidity between 65 and 87%.  Well...when those hot temperatures and the high humidity, when the air enters the crawl space, it can reach the dew point and begin codensation.  That's what I found in my crawl space.  I had been monitoring my crawl space using a wireless weather station with the transmitter located in the crawl space.  I thought it was fantastic that my crawl space had 20% humidity until I started getting suspicous during the past couple weeks 80+% humidity days.  So I checked the meter and the humidstat was broken.  I bought another weather station (Walmart - $15) and saw the truth...my crawl space had humidities in the 70-80% range.  That's bad.  And when I checked out the crawl space for mold, I didn't see any (good...probably because last year I went around and used a moldicide when I found some during a energy audit).  But I did find condenation all over what was left of my old vapor barrier (which was in various pieces...torn a lot...barely covering the sand floor). 

I had gotten an estimate in the past to encapsulate the crawl space and wow was it expensive:  $2800 for a 20Mil liner plus dehumidifer.  And over $7,000 for the full encapsulation which includes spray foam insulation on the crawl space walls. 


Screw that...I'm doing it myself.  Here's the method I used:  http://www.dom.com/about/conservation/pdf/crawlspaces.pdf  (Unvented crawl space).  Note: my crawl space is about 1300 sf and varies from about 4.5-ft in height to about 3 in height.  Not too bad. Here's a very  old pic when we moved in that shows the hot water heater (which now has insulation on it and all the hot water pipes have insulation as well):


See how it looks like crap in there?

So, on Saturday @ 6am,  I began 15 hours of fun in the crawl space.  I pulled out the old liner and any other junk that was in there.  I closed off all the vents and sealed them up.  Then I began putting up a 6mil liner with construction adhesive and super-all-weather gorilla tape.  Why a 6Mil liner vs the 20Mil liner above?  Well...first...a 20mil liner is like a frickin' pool liner.  The stuff is tonka.  Well, 6mil is more than strong enough since I don't store anything in my crawl space so why do I need something super heavy duty?  Anyhow, after putting down the liner I then sealed up the attic door (built a frame and put on weatherstripping). 

Overall,  it turned out great (I'll post some pics later).  The crawl space does not smell moldy/musty anymore.  The dehumidifer did a great job lowering the humidity from 78% to 48%.  I got worried for a while because my power usage shot up (I think the unit uses around 700W? And yesterday I used 44 kWh..yikes!) and stayed up for about 2 days, but its now caught up and turned off with the humidity is holding steady.

Now I have to recovery from my sore back and legs from working down there for so long... 

Monday, May 23, 2011

Energy Usage without the HTPC

Ok...so my HTPC "broke" last week and has been offline.  While I've been trying to troubleshoot the issues (I think I determined its the power supply), I've been able to look really how much energy it consumes.  Below is a figure from Google Powermeter which shows my energy usage before and after the HTPC is shutdown.  I would ignore Saturday and Sunday because there was a power failure at the house which messed up the readings. 

Note the "always on" power usage drops from about 8 kWh to 5 kWh.  This represents 3 kWh of savings or 125W.  That's some signficant savings!  (FYI:  Kudos to my wife who also significantly reduced power usage while I was away on business. I will mention that this is because she spent the majority of her time at her sister's place.  So minimal cooking, no TV, etc.)


So, I'd say that there's a lot of room to fix this.  As I've said in the past, updating my HTPC will significantly help power usage.  Reducing the power consumption down to 40W (which many reviews have shown modern PCs can do) could reduce HTPC power consumption by 68% reducing "always on" power consumption from 8 kWh to 6 kWh (HTPC would consume 0.96 kWh/d).  Yeah, I know someone will mention the two extremes:  "Why don't you not use the HTPC at all and save that energy?!?" or "Who cares?  That only saves you $0.1734/d or $5.27/month".  For the first question...(1) This is my hobby and I'll take the penalty.  And for (2), you're right it isn't a lot...but it's the thought that counts, right?  Plus it feeds the hobby mention in (1).   Oh...and don't forget I've already cut out a lot of the big things to do...so now I'm down to the small stuff anyway.


Monday, May 2, 2011

Misc Home Improvements

This weekend, I dug into the Duke Energy "Energy Efficiency Kit" that I was given.  I changed out some light bulbs which I hadn't done previously.  Unfortunately, the CFLs in my MBR ceiling fan flicker at night, so I'm guessing those might need to be changed back...or maybe I'll just install one bulb instead of two.

I also replaced my shower head with the new 1.5 gpm shower head.  It works great!  Not to mention my old one didn't have the rubber flow restricter installed so it was at least putting out 2.5-3 gpm previously.  This should not only save water, but more importantly, reduce the hot water usage and regen required.

I also setup my downstairs (den) HTPC frontend to go to "sleep" when i shut it off.  That saves me about 32W of 24/7 power reducing it from 40W to 8W.  It's not zero, but still a nice reduction.

Next up...I'll be upgrading the main HTPC (which uses about 100W @ idle).  To do this, I need to pretty much need to rebuild the main components (cpu/mobo/memory).  Rumor has it the AMD "bulldozer" will be optimal when it comes out in June/July.  And that is supposed to idle around 10-20W which is a healthy reduction in power usage.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Time of Use Rates

So I'm currently investigating moving my electricity rate structure from my current (RE) which is pretty much set at $0.086/kWh  ( http://www.duke-energy.com/pdfs/NCScheduleRE.pdf ) to a time of use rate structure ( http://www.duke-energy.com/pdfs/NCScheduleRT.pdf ).  Yeah, there is a small tier when you use over 350 kWh where it goes down to 0.078 in the summer...but that isn't significant.  Well, thanks to my TED 5000, I analyzed my historial data to see if it was worthwhile. 

First the rates...the time of use rates (TOU)  as shown below have a higher facility charge and lower overall rates.  However, there's this "On-peak demand" charge.  Well, that charge is defined as "the maximum integrated thirty-minute demand measured for the On-Peak period during the month".  So that means if I use 10 kW for 30 minutes in the Winter, then I'll get:  10 KW x $3.33 = $33.30 demand charge.   Sounds expensive right?  Well, let's see if it really works out... 


Below is the my historical hourly energy usage from January 18, 2011 to April 18, 2011. 

As you can see, in the winter I had some pretty high 1-hr usages (Note:  I did 1 hr usage to get more historical data - 90 days - vs the minute data which would have only stretched 48 hrs).

But how does this fall during peak times?  See the graph below which segregates out only the data during peak times:
Generally speaking, the vast majority of the elecrical usage is below 2 KW.  But...there were some pretty noticable peaks.  The extremely large peaks (8-16 KWH) were from that old crappy heat pump using the emergency heat (i.e. electric) because it couldn't keep up.  Those in the 4-6 kWH range are most likely either the dryer or the hot water being generated.  Those between 2-4 KWH could be a bunch of things...and most likely it was one heat pump on (~3.5 KW).  Not to mention this is a 1-hr average. 

So...if I take this hourly data and apply the on and off peak rates, then determine the max 1-hr power usage and apply the on-peak demand charge, what does that get me?  See the table below:


Ex CostPeak TOUOff TOUTOU TotalFac ChargeMax 1 hr KWHOnPeak ChrgTotal
Jan-11$153.36$12.75$67.23$79.98$13.8815.49$51.59$145.45
Feb-11$104.82$9.19$45.26$54.44$13.885.52$18.36$86.69
Mar-11$99.41$9.15$42.04$51.19$13.886.55$21.82$86.89
Apr-11$43.02$3.75$19.06$22.81$13.883.97$13.23$49.92
Total$400.61$34.83$173.58$208.42$55.52$368.95
savings$31.66


The "Ex Cost" column is the TED estimated cost for the month.  Overall, it's pretty close.  "Peak TOU" and "Off TOU" are the costs at the "on-peak" and "off-peak" rates.  Then I add in the Facility charge (a constant montly value).  Finally, I determine the Max 1-hr demand and multiply it by the winter charge ($3.33/KW).  Note that April-11 is currently an anomaly because its less than 1/2 the month so the facility+on-demand charge make up 1/2 the cost.
Overall, it shows that I could have saves ~$32 over 4 months with the TOU rates.  It doesn't seem like a lot right?  Well, one thing to remember is that I wasn't even trying to curb my electricity usage.  When I look back at the raw data...the vast majority of the peak usages occured between 7 - 8am (see below):


Sum of Winter Peak Elec
hourTotal KWH
0.000.000
1.000.000
2.000.000
3.000.000
4.000.000
5.000.000
6.000.000
7.00238.660
8.0075.460
9.0061.612
10.0057.602
11.0062.269
12.0066.023
13.000.000
14.000.000
15.000.000
16.000.000
17.000.000
18.000.000
19.000.000
20.000.000
21.000.000
22.000.000
23.000.000


Well...that's due to how I have my programmable thermostate setup and when we take showers for work.  If we get the house heated up 1 hrs earlier and we finish our showers 30 min earlier those peaks are off-demand.  Now there still is some demand (see below), but its significantly less.  Not to mention I now have a significantly higher efficiency HVAC system.  So I would expect these peaks to be much lower.  The worst load would be when the hot water heater runs (4.8 KWH) and that typically lasts only about 10-15 minutes. 


Max of Winter Peak Elec
hourmax 1-hr KWH
0.000.000
1.000.000
2.000.000
3.000.000
4.000.000
5.000.000
6.000.000
7.0015.492
8.003.785
9.006.554
10.003.214
11.003.977
12.005.078
13.000.000
14.000.000
15.000.000
16.000.000
17.000.000
18.000.000
19.000.000
20.000.000
21.000.000
22.000.000
23.000.000


So overall...if we can keep our peak demand to below, say 4 KW, during those peak times (that would be both the upstairs and downstairs geothermal systems running for 30 minutes), then I could increase those historical savings from $32 to $107. 

Moving forward...I think with all the energy effiicency stuff I've done (insulation, geothermal, etc), I think I can reap some great benefits. During the summer, the hot water running won't be an issue thanks to the desuperheater.  It'll just be the A/C...which I can mitigate by setting the thermostat high during that short period of time.  Plus, I'll probably only have the upstairs system run and will have the downstairs system essentially off.

It'll be interesting to try out...I'll try to post something up after this summer to show the results...

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Rain barrel



We bought and installed this 48 gal rain barrel yesterday.  $70 from home dept.  My original plan was to could one myself using a 44 gal trash can.  However, once you added up all the pieces, it was about the same price. 

I will say i was disappointed that I couldn't build it myself...plus this unit didn't have a screen nor does it appear to capture all the rain water.  We'll see how it works...

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Friday, April 22, 2011

dook Energy Audit

Well for fun, I decided to sign up for my free dook (yes, I went to UNC) Energy home audit.  They initially called and asked about May13th, which I had to decline as I'll be out of town, but yesterday I got a call that there was a cancellation and they could come out around Noon.  So, I jumped at the opportunity.  Below is an explanation from their website about what you get:

(from:  http://www.duke-energy.com/north-carolina/savings/home-energy-house-call.asp)

How it Works

One homeowner must be present at the time of the audit. A trained energy specialist will visit your home, at your convenience, to conduct a thorough in-home analysis. The energy specialist will:
  • Analyze your total home energy usage
  • Check your home for air leaks
  • Examine your insulation levels
  • Review your appliances and heating/cooling system
From the information collected, a custom-tailored report detailing steps you can take to increase efficiency and reduce your energy bill is prepared and given to you before your energy specialist leaves your home.
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My goal of this audit was to see if I could find anything else that I needed to do and possibly get some direction of what to do next. 

Anyhow, Mark (a dook Energy subcontractor) showed up and did my audit.  It lasted about 1.5 hrs and definitely was not as intensive as the home energy audit I did previously using ProEnergy consultants.  There was no thermal camera and no blower door test....which is kind of what I was hoping for, but I guess the audit was free...so what do you expect? 

Well, we walked around, I showed him all the work that I've done, and he asked a bunch of questions...most of which were on a form that he filled out.

Overall, this was the first house Mark has given the highest marks too.  But then again...this is my second audit, so I've already covered most of the stuff not to mention I've gone a little above and beyond. 

I got this simple dook Energy 'energy efficiency kit' which includes 3 CFL light bulbs, some outlet insulation, some weatherstripping, a low flow shower head, and two low flow sink aerators (one for kitchen and one for a bathroom sink). 
Not bad loot...

The most interesting advice I got was:

1)  Install some ridge vents in my attic (mine is currently mechanically ventilated).  In his experience the mechanical ventilation benefit in the attic does not offset the energy usage.

2) When I have a choice of encapsulating my crawl space vs the siding on my house, he suggested doing the siding first.  The installation of the house wrap (mine has none) will significantly reduce air infiltration and will make the house more energy efficient.  Not to mention the new siding will make the house look good.

3)  He mentioned monitoring my crawl space as I'm doing using a weather monitor and if the humidity doesn't move above 60%, then there's really no reason to encapsulate my crawl space.

4)  Finally, he suggested taking a break.   I've gone above and beyond what most folks have done and its time to sit back and relax for a bit...or knock some of the other stuff off the 'honey do' list.  I guess this suggestion is good for my wallet...

PS.  I did go to my hot water heater and turn down the thermostat.  It was set at its factor default of 120F.  I reduced it to what I think is 110F.  I'm not sure because it's a simple thermostat without tick marks.  So, I guessed.  Either way, right now I can't tell a difference in the hot water temperature....and it should save me some energy...

Sunday, April 17, 2011

Energy/Cost Savings...What to do next?

Ok...I Friday and yesterday I spent countless hours trying to get my HTPC to shutdown and wakeup automatically.  When I manually told it to turn on in 5 minutes and shut it down manually, it worked fine, turning on automatically.  When I let it automatically turn off, it did just fine, but then it wouldn't turn back on.  It appears that I just can't get the system to pass the correct date/time in there.  Not sure why...Long story short...I'm fed up with it.  I'm no linux computer expert and I spent most of my time on Google trying to figure out commands.  I know enough to get by, but that's it.

So, I thought the next most logical step was to finally start looking at an upgrade to reduce power usage since this is on 24/7.  Well...a question arose...are there better investments?  Let's take a look...

I measured all my HTPC components with a Killawatt meter and the total usage is 120W when idle.  The computer itself uses 92W.  Reading online, a nice Intel Core i3 system (with all the accessories) uses around 40W when idle.  So that would save me 52W.  On a daily basis thats 1.2kWh which would save me $0.106/day = $3.23/mo = $38.72/yr.  Generally I would invest about $300 into this which gives me a simple return on investment (ROI) of 7.75 years.  Not all that great, right?

Well...looking at my TED, it's pretty obvious the one thing that is using the most power in my home is the hot water heater (see large single spikes).  The graph above shows last weeks worth of hourly energy usage.  The block on the first day (Sunday) is from doing laundry so that's a mix of hot water and dryer usage.  Overall, It's that time of the year when I don't need heating or cooling, so my geothermal is turned off (House stays between 67 and 75...comfy!).  With the system off, my desuperheater isn't heating my hot water.  So...does it make sense to upgrade my hot water heater?

Well, one of those GE hybrid hot water systems costs about $1400 from Lowe's (I'm not including the tax credit because I can't buy it this year).  If my current hot water heater (4.8kW) is on, say for 2 hrs/day (only 1 hr shown above, but let's factor in winter), then that I'd use 9.6kWh/d which is $0.82/day = $24.8/mo = $298/yr.  A hybrid hot water heater (according to the website) would save me 62%.  So, without factoring in the desuperheater, my ROI is 7.6 years.  With the desuperheater reducing hot water by 40% (a conservative value) then the ROI rises to 12.64 years.  Overall, I'd say this fix isn't worth it unless my hot water heater decides to break.

Out of curiosity, how about solar hot water?  Well...first, I'm not sure if my desuperheater and solar hot water can work together...but let's assume they can.  A solar hot water system (which is not a do-it-yourself job for me given my roof is so steep) would probably cost about $5000 installed.  This is just a guess looking online for similar systems.  What's the ROI?  16.8 years...so yeah, that's out of the question.

Out of these 3, upgrading the computer has the best ROI, albeit the overall savings are small.

However, I think my best bet is going to be contacting my geothermal MFR to see if there's a way for my desuperheater system to heat my hot water.  All the parts are there...there just needs to be some way for the hot water tank to contact the geothermal system to turn on.  And in hot water only mode, then the geothermal system would not turn on the fan.

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Always on Electrical Usage

Hmmm...I think its time to tackle the always on Electrical usage. Above is a screenshot from my Google Powermeter.  Notice that my average "always on" power usage is roughly a third of my total power usage.  On some days, that power usage is over a half of my daily power usage!

Really, if you look at my power usage in my previous blog (Phantom Power Usage), by far most of my always on power usage is from my HTPC.  Looking at my schedules, my HTPC really only needs to run for at most 4-5 hrs/day.  So, why is it running 24 hrs/day?

So this weekend, I'm going to look into this.  I've played with this concept before...which works setting it manually, now I just need to get it to work automatically.

I'll keep you posted.